A friendly welcome?

This is what we found in our wheelhouse when we arrived just after dark today.

There were also quite a lot in the cabin but these were mostly dead and so easy to vaccum up.

Fortunately we came prepared. Flypapers, electric swatter, and vacuum cleaner. So we have cleared away nearly all of them (I think I can see only about 3 or 4 flying around the cabin at the moment).

We assume they are hatching in the wheelhouse support tubes, ideal breeding grounds?. It does tend to move updating the wheelhouse up our priority list, although really we want to wait for nice Spring weather for a job like that. Maybe we can just put some sealant in the ends to see if that reduces the problem?

A weeks wee

Just emptied the wee bottles of both composting toilets. Second time this holiday. So we seem to be pretty consistent at filling 2 bottles a week. Not had to empty either toilet of solids and they are nowhere near full. We don’t tend to use the clubhouse toilets very much. A reasonable picture of a week at anchor or while sailing.

Just to remember that emptying a composting toilet is quick, clean and easy. The wee bottles just pour down a normal toilet with no mess.

Epic dinghy ride

Yesterday we had family with us. So we went on an epic dinghy ride in the afternoon. It would have worked better with a high tide that was a couple of hours earlier. Anyway we set off towards Puffin Island.

The electric ePropulsion motor again worked faultlessly. I was fooled by some breaking water ahead and a red buoy far off to starboard into going further than I needed from the shore and this got is into a bit of a wet patch of wind against tide. So we headed into the last full bay before Penmon Point.

We went ashore but I soon realised that the bottom of the bay was almost flat and with a falling tide we risked being stranded for ours. In the end we managed to drag/push ourselves off, hampered by the sand turning to mud before the depth increased enough for us to properly float.

Still we did approx 14km with quite a bit of the second battery left despite coming back against the tide.

I still want to get to Puffin Island!!

Good to keep confirming that it was worth stretching to the 2.9m Highfield Classic, we can’t fit (or lift) larger but the extra length was great with 4 adults.

We have a poop box 🤣

Today Jane did a great job with epoxy fillets and epoxy coating the mizzen supports in the aft cabin. Sorry no pictures.

Meanwhile, I built a poop box 😁

I haven’t finished the lid.

The box fits directly onto the Natures Head composting toilet base. So you can tie it on, turn the toilet upside down and empty it into the box. No mess and no need to carry the full toilet base through the boat. While we have a home with compost bin we can bring the poop box home to empty into the compost. Later we can have more boxes to store until we find a good place to empty them.

Short and Longer term plans for Instruments, Navigation, Communications, Safety

True to form we are going to be ripping out all the original instruments, after 44 years they are all well past their useful life. Both the speed and depth sensors used holes in the hull (and we are determined to minimise holes!). Nothing is connected to anything else and their were no updates to technologies such as DSC on the VHF radio (allows private direct calls between radios), AIS (potential to receive and transmit details of your boat, location, speed and direction for warnings of potential collisions), or GPS (position). Even the compass has problems as it’s light doesn’t work and there is air inside it instead of oil.

Later we need to get onto other essentials such as navigation lights, as the current ones are all either broken or very UV damaged and none of then are LED.

When thinking about instruments and navigation there are almost an infinite number of options available and the choice can be bewildering. Hence, a very common choice is to fully equip with a range of sensors and multi-function displays from a single manufacturer connected using (for new systems) NMEA 2000 (a wiring and data standard). However, this is way beyond our budget (probably by at least an order of magnitude). The biggest names supplying everything are B&G, Raymarine and Garmin.

Obviously, there are significant advantages in buying a complete set of instruments, and electronics from one company. Principally it should all connect and integrate seamlessly. Installation should be simpler and the learning curve should be reduced.

However, there are disadvantages besides the cost.

  • With a fully integrated system you can only see the output from a sensor (for example the depth) if the sensor, the network, the system cpu and a multifunction display are all powered and working. That is a lot of potential points of failure and potentially a lot of power consumption.
  • Another disadvantage is the extent to which you get locked (literally or emotionally) into a single ecosystem. That means when you decide to add something new (for example connecting to the boat systems using your phone over the Internet) you might find yourself waiting for the one supplier to add this feature or unlock it for others to connect to.
  • Until you start connecting items from other manufacturers you can never be quite sure how standards compliant the system is. So if a sensor breaks do you buy what is available locally or wait until you can get something from the same manufacturer?

At the other end of scale are the cheap but not connected products. For example you can have  standalone depth sounder (sensor and display), a GPS, a VHF radio with AIS that doesn’t share the data with anything else.

In the middle are options to buy individual items that can be connected using a standard interface (most commonly now NMEA 2000). This way you can start with specific paired sensors and displays (such as wind speed and direction) that can later be connected to other things. With some skill and luck you can mix and match from different manufacturers.

Once you have fully integrated instruments and navigation you can have a big chart plotter screen that doesn’t just show the chart and your position but adds radar overlays and AIS targets and predictions based on wind speed/direction (current as well as forecast), even camera views can be added. But at this point you have gone beyond the data speed/capacity of NMEA and are needing to look at using WiFi.

That brings us to some leading edge developments that are starting to bring in new competition and disrupt the marketplace. Principally Bluetooth LE, WiFi, 4G and solar.

An obvious example is to have a solar powered, wireless wind sensor for the top of the mast. This is potentially much simpler and more reliable than running data and power cables in the mast. The traditional companies now have these. However, they typically wirelessly connect with a proprietary protocol to a little black box that is physically connected to the NMEA 2000 network. As far as the rest of the system is concerned it appears exactly the same as a wired sensor. An alternative is skip a few technological steps and use other standards, such as Bluetooth. This means you can have a solar powered, wireless wind sensor that connects directly to your phone which displays the data using your choice of app. No NMEA network, no other devices needed.

Also there are more options than just the proprietary NMEA standard. For example there are black boxes available that connect to NMEA 2000 and make the data available over open Internet standards (both WiFi and wired). The Bluetooth sensor companies are also adding black boxes that connect their devices to NMEA.

Another development is to bring the Internet culture of Open Standards and Free Software, that can run on a variety of different hardware, to the marine instrument and navigation arena. Two notable examples are SignalK (an open standard that replaces NMEA and runs on Internet standards) and OpenCPN which is a free/open navigation tool (runs on many operating systems and also phones).

At this point these are not really mature consumer options, they require a fair bit of DIY (potentially to the level of soldering circuit boards), some familiarity with system setup & administration and even programming.

Given the constraints of our budget and time, the lack of anything to build upon, we have decided to get afloat with the things we see as essential, have them mostly standalone with goals of low cost, reliability, simplicity, low power consumption and the ability to add more DIY functionality later.

Instruments

Compass: New bulkhead compass to replace the original “Big Ben”. Not connected to anything but a light (at the end of the day a compass, a watch, a sextant and paper charts make a safe fallback situation that should be available even after a lightning strike)

Depth: Our first choice would be an in hull depth sensor (no hole in the boat needed) with a dedicated screen (with features such as a shallow water alarm) plus interconnection potential so that in the future  we could check the depth on our phones while ashore (in case we have miscalculated the tides and we are about to go aground, could also be that the wind changed and blew you into shallower water). Unfortunately, I haven’t found this combination so we will probably go for the Nasa Clipper Depth (approx £130) which doesn’t have any connectivity options at the moment.

Wind Speed and Direction: We want a wind instrument that uses a solar powered, wireless sensor at the top of the mast – that means one less wire in the mast, and one less hole in the deck to leak (hence a much simpler installation). This eliminates one of the most common causes of problems (the wire or the connections) and must surely reduce the chance of lightning taking out all your instruments. We want it’s own dedicated display for installation simplicity and to increase reliability by keeping the number of points of failure down. However, we also want the option to be able to connect it to other devices in the future. That allows better information on the chart plotter. Much more than that, by connecting NMEA to our Raspberry Pi systems (probably via SignalK) we can connect phones locally using wifi and remotely via 4g over the Internet. Not only does that let you to display things on your phone such as a graph of wind direction and speed over say 24 hours, but it also lets you pick that up while the boat is anchored and you are shopping. Then you can see if there might be a problem coming (is there a wind increase that will make it harder to get back in the dinghy? Or might your drying laundry be about to blow away?). The Clipper Wireless Wind (True) looks a good initial option (but only Nasa themselves seem to be selling the True wind version at the moment at £373) . While we would not have the true wind display initially, it would be available once we connect it to NMEA with a GPS device also connected. An alternative would be the innovative OpenWind.de solar, Bluetooth LE but it is over £100 more and we would have to use a phone as the display until we have a connected computer display.

No speed: We are not going to have any measure of speed through the water. It always requires a hole in the boat so we are ruling it out. We will rely on GPS (and there are going to be multiple GPS systems). These can now use multiple satellite systems which improves reliability. They don’t allow us to directly see the effect of tide or current but we feel this is something we can live with for reliability (the paddle wheels used in the ones we could afford are vulnerable to damage and growth) and safety (look at the Sailing Zingaro where he nearly sank his Oyster because the speed sensor leaked and note that he should have also had a working bilge water alarm and automatic bilge pump as we already have ready to install).

Navigation

Initially we are going to use our phones and Android tablet. There are plenty of apps that we can use. I’d like to start with OpenCPN which is what we eventually plan to run on Raspberry Pi computers.

While I have most of the stuff to setup the Raspberry Pi navigation system (and there will be lots to write about that in the future) I doubt I will have time before our first launch. Maybe it will be a project whilst we are out sailing on my sabbatical – but I don’t want it to be something we rely on without a lot more time to develop and test it. Even then I’m not planning to have it as the only way to view instruments or navigate – just too risky.

In the long term though the plan is for a “chartplotter” in the cockpit that can be seen and controlled when steering. It will be powered by a Raspberry Pi 4 below decks controlling a 15.6″ touch screen (with the option of bringing out a wireless keyboard and mouse in suitable conditions). This will display a chart with the boat position and AIS overlay. So it will be used primarily for live navigation.

We will have another Raspberry Pi 4 below, using a 21″ TV as it’s display (again a wireless keyboard and mouse). This will be able to function as a chartplotter (principally for planning, backup and keeping an eye on things when nipping below when on watch). It will also run our entertainment, office and editing software. We will have a 3rd system (with a more basic screen) pre-configured and up-to-date that will be wrapped with a battery in multiple layers of foil and plastic that will act as a Faraday cage so that it should survive a lightning strike.

Communications

We do have a basic handheld VHF radio which we will keep for emergencies and dinghy to boat communications (bit with mobile phones likely to be the preferred option if there is a signal).

We will add a fixed VHF radio with DSC and a new aerial. Possibly something like a basic ICOM IC-M330GE for around £200

We will setup a WiFi network for the boat and eventually we would like to add a full 4G mobile connection to that using big aerials to pick up a mobile phone signal several miles offshore.

Safety

AIS: We will install a minimum of a full Class B AIS system that both transmits and receives. We are looking for models from Digital Yacht that provide a WiFi interface (simplest for both our Android devices and Raspberry Pi’s). So at the budget end an iAISTX for £522.00

I think that if we upgraded to the iAISTX plus version (£642) which has an NMEA interface then it should be possible to connect the AIS to the VHF DSC system allowing you to pick a target and directly connect to them on the VHF using DSC. So if the AIS tells you that a ship will collide with you 5 miles ahead then you can call them to ask what they plan to do about it. Without this you can find the call details on the AIS and manually put them into the VHF (tricky if it is rough and you are stressed/tired and the wind is changing etc).

If we could afford it I would like the Digital Yacht Class B+ device as it transmits at twice the power. Hence, we would be detected by ships at a much greater range than 8 to 10 miles as well as more reliably in very busy areas with lots of signals. However, the AIT5000 with WiFi is £1,074.

Whichever AIS we get, we will add a Man Overboard alarm and Man Overboard devices to our life jackets. That means if we fall into the water an alarm automatically goes off on our boat (and any others within range) and the chartplotter will show the position of the person in the water so that you can find them again.

The AIS will probably use an aerial splitter so that it can share the aerial with the VHF radio.

Radar: For the foreseeable future radar will remain on our “would be nice to have” list. Cost is approaching £2,000 for the radar dome, mounting bracket etc. OpenCPN already includes support for a growing number of Radars so you can see the radar scan on top of the chart (makes it easier to work out if the radar image is showing land, rain, a ship or a buoy). For collision avoidance we think AIS is much cheaper, it gives much more accurate and detailed information, however not all vessels have it. Radar is great for fog, rain squalls and navigation in busy waters at night. Radar is much better for detecting fishing boats (who frequently don’t want to advertise their position on AIS).

At first launch

So we will have the following before we launch:

  • Compass
  • Depth with dedicated display
  • Apparent Wind speed and direction with dedicated display
  • 2 phones and a tablet all with chartplotter software and charts (with waterproof cockpit mounts and USB charging)
  • AIS class B (displaying on the phones and tablet) with MOB alarm
  • AIR MOB transmitters for our life jackets
  • VHF radio

Medium term

  • connect the devices that support it, with NMEA 2000 (gives true wind on the Clipper Wind, AIS integration with the Radio (including MOB support)
  • Raspberry Pi 4 powered chartplotter in the cockpit
  • Raspberry Pi 4 powered chartplotter, office and entertainment in the saloon
  • Spare Raspberry Pi system in Faraday cage

Long Term

  • Long range 4g connection for the whole boats WiFi
  • Additional sensors and monitoring through a web interface on all our devices anywhere as long as boat and we have an internet connection (battery state, solar, motor temperature, tanks levels, bilge pump alarms, lots of environment data such as temperature and humidity etc)
  • Mast mounted forward looking camera with night vision for watch keeping
  • Security cameras
  • Radar
  • Long range WiFi connection for the whole boat (as free WiFi comes to more places)
  • Extra Raspberry Pi powered screen in the cockpit for a customised dashboard next to the chart (wind, depth, battery, solar, cameras, AIS text).
  • Automation (alerts to phones, full management of solar power including control of dump power – eg heat water, run dehumidifier, electric blankets, boat heating)
  • Add PyPilot software to control original electric autopilot motor

That should be enough to keep us going for a while and also plenty to spend our entire living budget for several years  – which gives an idea of how much of it will happen 🙂

Diesel gets everywhere!

One of less pleasant things we originally found on the boat, when we bought her, were some incontinence pads. We thought they were there to catch water from leaks (we found that mostly these were from the windows, but also some from mooring cleats and other deck fittings).

However, I’ve just removed some plywood that was bonded to the hull as a sloped part of the floor as you enter the aft cabin. The plywood turned out to be saturated in diesel. So maybe the pads that were under the floor of the aft cabin were to absorb diesel.

We think that the diesel tank, on the outboard side of the corridor to the aft cabin, must have had a bit of a leak. The plywood covered a section where the grp covered foam stringer was cut away. This left a bit of a groove that the diesel must have run along.

It is well over a year since we removed the diesel engine and fuel tanks. Hopefully this is the last bit of diesel impregnated wood to remove.

Smelly diesel impregnated plywood
Where the wood was.

Improving the composting toilet experience

We have been using a Nature’s Head composting toilet on Vida since September 2019. We liked it enough to add a second in November 2019. Our experience has ranged from them being abandoned (after use) for 6 months during lockdown through weekend use by two people and upto a couple of weeks by two people plus occasional guests.

During this time we haven’t had a 12 volt electrical supply and so we have not fitted the extraction fan or vent.

So what would improve things going forward?

Improving the user experience

This is going to be the shortest section. Whilst, I am wary of calling anything perfect we don’t have any suggestions for improving the usability of the Nature’s head. Perhaps a step would make it more comfortable for very short people. The integrated, solid seat works really well. It is easy to keep clean and perfectly comfortable enough. The instructions are very simple:

  • Always sit
  • Open the hatch for solids
  • Put paper down the hatch
  • Close hatch
  • Spin the handle a couple of times.

Improving the Emptying Process

Here we do have some changes that we are planning.

  • Fit the extractor fan. Not to prevent smells (we haven’t had any problems), but to help dry the solid waste by extracting the damp air above it. That will make emptying the solids easier.
  • Widen doors so the Nature’s head fits through them. The doors to both our heads compartments (and the door plus corridor from the aft cabin) are a very tight fit for the Nature’s Head and it takes a bit of wrestling to get it through. So as part of our refit they are all being made a bit wider (even if not for the full height) to make it much easier to carry the Nature’s Head out. It will also make the doors less cramped for my shoulders as the doors were really narrow. Taking the whole toilet outside to empty the solids avoids any possibility of mess inside the boat.
  • Have a set of solid boxes with vented lids (that can be closed) that the solids can be tipped into (more detail below)
  • See if we can fill some of the “ledges” in the top compartment that loose bits of compost get caught on when you are a bit enthusiastic with spinning the handle. It makes a bit of a mess (of the driest, coconut coir) when you remove the lid to empty the solids.

Dealing with the waste.

The liquid is no problem. Just take to a normal toilet and empty. If no toilet or emptying point available then pour into the sea (outside the 3 mile limit) or onto the ground eg a hedge (well away from water supplies, people, crops).

The most common solution for the solids seems to be to bag it and put it in a bin. That seems rather unpleasant for everyone, it creates more plastic waste and it wastes a really good resource – compost!

We plan to fully compost the solids so that they can either be put onto any appropriate bit of ground or used in gardening. If necessary, once fully composted they can be dumped at sea with no risks to anything/anyone. Ideally that means they need to be kept for about 12 months. This is no problem while we are not live-aboards – we simply take it home and put it into the normal compost bin. Out of caution and wishing to be sensitive to our neighbours, we use a big plastic compost bin with a lid and every so often we put some grass cuttings on top of the compost.

Once we live-aboard we plan to have a set of boxes, each sized for emptying the base a couple of times. These will be custom made to fit inside our lazarette locker. We will label each box with the date that the last solids were added. Once that is more than 12 months ago the box can be emptied (appropriately ashore or into the sea offshore) and restarted. We think this will work out a reasonable size so they are not too heavy to lift or too big to get in and out of the lazarette. Obviously if we find that we are filling the boxes too quickly we can add more boxes (subject to the size of the lazarette)

Each box will have a vent (that can be closed for transport). We will also have an extractor fan for the lazarrette. This will ensure the compost gradually dries (desiccates) which we understand is good for the composting and good for ensuring no smells.

Building the first box will allow us to test the size and will also provide a better way to get the compost from the boat to the compost bin at home. At the moment we either have to take the whole toilet home (very awkward to carry down the ladder) or tip the waste into a plastic bag (which we then put in another plastic bag for security). These bags then get thrown away after tipping the contents into the compost bin, this obviously creating unnecessary plastic waste.

We hope (I’ll try to remember to measure it this weekend) that our fixed lazarette hatch size is bigger than the dimensions of the opening in the toilet base. Then each box can have catches (for it’s lid) that are the same as the toilet top section and so a box can clip onto the toilet base. To empty the base, the toilet top is removed, a box latched on it it’s place and the whole thing turned over so all the waste falls into the box with no mess. If, however, our lazarette hatch is not large enough, I’ll create a “funnel” intermediary to connect the box to the base, adapting from one size to the other.

Whether we can fit a whole 12 months of solid waste into our lazarette locker remains to be seen. It is very hard to predict as the toilet takes less days to fill if in continuous use than if used only at weekends (it composts down significantly in between the weekends). it will depend on how many guests we have and how much time is spent where there are other toilets we use.

The 12 months is a very arbitrary length of time. It is generally expected to be completely safe to use on a garden after 6 month with a recommendation that it isn’t used for food crops for 12 months. Our understanding is that even after quite a short time there is no risk to marine life if you empty the compost at sea (beyond the 3 mile limit).

Supplies

At the moment we buy bulk recycled toilet paper from Who Gives a Crap. Obviously, when cruising we will need to buy whatever is available where we go, however, we will still bulk buy when we find recycled, plastic free products.

We also bulk buy Coir Briquettes at the moment. A years supply takes very little space but there are plenty of alternatives that can be used if these are not available.

We use vinegar in a little spray bottle for cleaning the toilet seat, hatch etc. Cheap and widely available.

Conclusion

Composting toilets are great. So the only improvements are to make them a bit simpler to empty and reduce the impact caused by the waste you create.

The hidden dangers of your boat

No, I’m not being subtle here 🙂

Our experience from the beginning of our project on Vida has included uncovering a number of hidden dangers. In our case that included being close to having paraffin leaking into the engine compartment.

This can of fuel (for the heating system) was fixed and buried deep within the cockpit locker where most of it was invisible in a wood “box”. We put it in a bag and took it to the recycling centre. By the time we got there it had given up and all the fuel had leaked out.

We have many other things that we have uncovered during this refit. Including this important part of the steering system. The gear box on the right of the picture was boxed in by plywood nailed into place. The other side of the bulkhead is hidden behind the autopilot motor in the furthest corner of the cockpit locker.

So nobody knew that 3 of the 4 bolts holding it in place can fallout out and the 4th was about to do so. It wasn’t picked up by the survey and the lack of smoothness in the steering had come in so gradually that it hadn’t been noticed.

Or there was this as we were removing the galley sink drain. How well do you think the seacock tap would have closed off this pipe if there was a problem?

Or there is the issue that our foam back vinyl headlining was absorbing water and disguising where leaks were. Two we only discovered after returning following 6 months of Covid lockdown.

Or that the cupboards in the aft cabin had meant that the previous owner couldn’t work out where the leaks where coming from because they blocked access. They also hid the one place in the boat that we have found where the glass fibre tabbing for a bulkhead is not perfect.

Or that the bilge sump had a fixed floor 1m above the bottom with one tiny hole so that things could drop in and not be retrieved yet could block the bilge pump (let alone no way to tell how much water was in there).

Or the gate valve on the skin fitting for the bilge pump. Totally seized which didn’t matter so much as neither the previous owner nor the surveyor even knew it was there, if they had known they could not have reached it due to all the original systems in the way.

Or the original diesel system with tanks so well fixed and boxed in that it was impossible to inspect them, or trace all the pipes or have anyway to clean the tanks.

For us all this makes us very grateful that we are replacing pretty much all systems and that we are not trying to restore the original timber interior.

Others have it worse though. There are now a couple of YouTube channels with Lagoon 450’s which have serious problems with failing bulkheads that are completely hidden by furniture that was assembled before being fitted to the boat and which cannot be disassembled without pretty much destroying it. Sailing Parlay Revival was the first. Here is where they first discovered the problem:

They now have a playlist of videos where they are fixing the problems (which are enormous).

I’ve seen plenty of mocking Colin as causing the problem by putting far too much tension in his rig. However, some of what he has uncovered shows that there had been attempts to fix issues before it became the hurricane damaged catamaran he bought.

Then I discovered this video.

I’ve read some of the comments (yes, I know usually a mistake). Lots of hate and ignorance and general nastiness.

My concern is a wider one than the extent to which Lagoon have a problem to solve.

In order to have nice looking boats and to ft more and more features (like hot water, fridges etc etc), for decades, manufacturers have been building furniture that hides things. Sometimes, the furniture is designed to be part of the structure, others to hide it or conceal the services.

This has the potential to be a significant danger. Problems are hidden until they have catastrophic outcomes (such as paraffin leaking into an engine room with a hot diesel engine running; or a bilge pump hose failure that means water can flood into a deep bilge that you have no access to from a skin fitting that you can’t reach or close).

I’ve been writing a separate blog post about “Why we are changing everything on our boat?” and for us these are connected. When hidden problems are uncovered and fixed during a full refit you safe time, money and reduce risk significantly over a do the minimum now and then maintain on the way process.

For us this is also about Sustainability, not immediately in the environmental way (although at the end of the day that is impacted to). Sustaining the plan, the cruising dream is made more possible by reducing the potential for hidden problems. So we believe it is worth making (sometimes drastic) changes in order for you to be able to:

  • see every bulkhead along it’s length to check it is fully, properly connected to the hull
  • inspect every chain plate (thanks to our latest design ours will be a simple job per chainplate: slacken shroud, pull the dyneema chainplate loop out, inspect or replace)
  • get to every backing plate for every deck fitting to check for corrosion or leaks
  • get to every part of every length of fuel line (gas or diesel or whatever) to check. Be able to clean and remove blockages/sludge from every tank and fuel line
  • reduce the number of holes in the boat (seacocks/instruments etc) and be able to check them all quickly with good access for checking and servicing.
  • have headlinings that can be removed to check for leaks (as well as run wiring)

The way that this becomes more environmentally sustainable is that all these practices mean that boats can stay in use and not be written off for longer. Every extra year of use reduces the average carbon footprint and takes us closer to points where recycling of old boats is improved.

March breaks through 1,000 views

Very happy to see that March has been the first time that we have had more than 1,000 views in one month. That was over 420 visitors. Plus we now have 130 followers spread out between email, WordPress and social media. Good to see some consistent growth.

So if you are following us then welcome! If you are new here then also welcome

We are on a journey that hopefully will return to more practical progress in a couple of weeks when lockdown restrictions are due to relax. It will be good to get out of my head a bit.

Next week we hope to be setting our son up to get the plastic shredding started. We have a new stainless steel shredder and a second hand electric motor which he is going to connect and sort out. The injection moulding machine and moulds is all on order. We will be taking our shed to re-purpose as a workshop. Hopefully it won’t be too long before we have some recycled plastic products to sell.